Building a 3D Scanner Turntable: Advanced Photogrammetry Agisoft Metashape

Building a 3D Scanner Turntable: Advanced Photogrammetry Agisoft Metashape

Recently I did a basic photogrammetry
video linkup here you can go and check it out and in the comments I received a
comment from a fellow named Luke fron he suggests by the largest lazy susan
bearing you can find and make a doughnut-shaped
turntable mount the camera on a boom to it with a counterweight on the other
side place the stationary object in the middle point the camera inwards
rotate and shoot let us know how it goes I thought that was pretty brilliant so I
built one of those devices my name is Eric Strebel I’m an industrial designer
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shelf t-shirts hoodies stickers leggings and phone cases so the first thing I did
to start this project was to do a little sketch orthographic view top view camera
on the right object in the middle stationary turntable in the center
camera rotates around that here’s a little side view so you can see what
we’re gonna make i mocked it up super quick in 3d so you could visualize it a
little bit better camera on the right object in the middle
lazy susan barring screen on the left i just lay things out on a big sheet of
cardboard to get a rough idea of scale dimensions and we’re gonna cut this
thing out of some wood so just to be clear this is really a proof of concept
for me this is not some final production design thing it’s something I’m mocking
up I don’t even know if it’s gonna work and really just testing it out it seems
like it should but I need to mock this thing up before I build like a final
good one where I really spent some time or some money so we’re mocking it up out
of just crappy cheap plywood it happens to be the box that my laser cutter came
in so I have lots of this cheap crappy china plywood and it’s gonna be perfect
for this project so we’ll cut out some of these pieces you can see my son Wyatt
here he’s cutting out the inner circle where the lazy susan goes are on we’re
also using the laser cutter just to help us cut stuff straight kind of as a guide
or a template and we’re going to come back through with the bandsaw real quick
and cut along those lines it also helps illuminate the burn marks on the woods
so we don’t get black charcoal marks all over us just using the laser as a guide
so we’re building a few things in this case this is the arm that’s going to
support the camera and I’m gluing a couple pieces together because it needs
to be a little bit stronger use a little bit of MDF masonite and this is one of
the turntables this looks like the base that goes at the very bottom that the
lazy susan gets mounted to and then we’re gonna cut out another one this is
the little base where the object is gonna rest on top of don’t worry it’s
all gonna come together you’re gonna see how it looks and of course I didn’t use
the laser cutter to actually mark the middle of the circle so I’m doing a
little bit of old-school so I can find the middle using a compass here lay out
where that lazy susans gonna be and I got a rough idea of where the center is
gonna raise that turntable up or that platform up
you know the stuff will rotate all around that here’s the lazy susan
bearing that I bought you can buy this at any big box home goods store near you
screwing it in all this stuff by manual the plywood’s not very thick and I end
up having to you cut off some of the screws that’s the through-hole that
allows me to screw the other screws back on to the Box side and here you can see
I got to cut down the screws that stick through cuz I didn’t have any of the
right length what’s pretty thin and it varies in
thickness so some stuck through more than others I’m just using a dremel tool
here to cut them off keep things kind of safe and so nobody gets hurt or
scratched or anything got it like slo-mo looks so good we doing the boringest
thing slow-mo it looks amazing anyway back to putting stuff back together the screen on this thing which is gonna
remain constant as the background is merely gonna be a piece of chipboard or
cardboard white and I’m just putting in some blocks that I can slot the wood
into so the theory behind this entire thing is that the object stays
stationary the lighting stays constant and we’re gonna move the camera around
the object and we’re gonna keep the background in line with the camera as
well and so that’s going to provide us kind of like a constant background that
should get cut out of the image this is the mount for the camera basically
something strong to hold the camera in place doesn’t have to be super sturdy
but it doesn’t have to be relatively strong to support the camera and again
just screwing the stuff on by hand lissa proof of concept I’m not gonna
invest too much time into something that I’m not even 100% sure is gonna work one
of the other things we need here you see that back-end kind of bouncing around
and that’s where there’s gonna be a lot of weight from the camera so we’re gonna
put a couple little feet on the bottom of this thing and those feet are
literally gonna drag on the tabletop surface and we’re just gonna use a
little piece of cedar here will end up waxing it up and that will rotate just
fine on the surface of the table where this whole thing is mounted so to glue
everything together I’m just going to use a little bit of e6000 glue to glue
everything together you know why it’s called e by the way oh yeah my name
works really good for this kind of stuff mixed materials this adhesive works
fantastic for that all right we’ll add a little weight on
here and let this dry overnight and in the morning we’ll be able to test it out
let’s pop on the stationary screen in the back pretty simple I’m just gonna
attach a clamp here to help hold it up because it’s not quite strong enough to
hold the matte board you’ll also notice there in front of the
object is a pin and I have marked off increments of 10 degrees on that table
so that pin is mainly there just to guide me so I can take a photo every 10
degrees around this object I manually attaching the camera here with a cold
shoe mount that I use for all of my gear and then I have some holes drilled in
that rail so I can move the camera wherever I want some sort of quick
feature or quick release feature would be nice but for this case we’re just
testing things out so we take a photograph every 10 degrees 360 degrees
all the way around it this is the mid-level shot there’s one at the bottom
and one at the top so the theory goes here is that with this photogrammetry
software that I’m using from its Mehta shape the lighting wants to be constant
the object stays stationary so that the lighting can stay constant and we’re
moving the camera around the object this rig merely allows me to hold the
camera steady making things much faster and I’m tricking it by using a constant
background I’m also using a very long depth of field so I can get the bottle
in focus completely every single shot I will link to the equipment that I’m
using below i’m using a panasonic gh4 and kind of a stock pancake lens you can
see every single one of these shots comes in absolutely fit
lastik I’m rather stunned that it works and here is the data that it produced it
probably took about 30 to 45 minutes crunching in the software in meta shape
and produced me some pretty fantastic data this data should be repeatable for
me every single time by placing the bottle in there I didn’t even use a
diffuser on top like I did in past videos here you can see me rotating
around the object so we’re gonna pull this into fusion 360 we’re going to
export it out as an obj and pull it in Fusion and check it out what it looks
like quality is excellent I do do a little bit of cleanup here on the bottom
of the bottle I could make it a solid if I wanted but I’m really testing out the
concept and I’m super pleased with the results so we’re gonna export this let’s
move over to Fusion you should be able to pull this into any CAD application
like I said I’m using a fusion 360 comes in here I’ll just straighten out the
object get a square to the rest of the world and you can see looks absolutely
fantastic probably better than the previous scan I got that may have to do
with holding the camera steady and just the whole setup so without too much
effort I built myself a scanning rig that allows me repeatable excellent
quality results every single time don’t forget to subscribe to the channel you
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43 Replies to “Building a 3D Scanner Turntable: Advanced Photogrammetry Agisoft Metashape”

  1. Super cool design! I like the way you lay things out "simplistically" and build up! I might steal parts of the idea as I am messing around with Meshroom ( and it likes the object to remain stationary rather then sit on a turn table itself.

  2. Great idea. But it has some problems. For example if he wants to scan an object including bottom parts he can’t.
    I think this problem can be solved simply by elevating the object base about half of the arch. And instead of using plate using a stick to hold the object so bottom parts can be seen.
    Turkey’s flag is perfect to visualise this. The star is the object and the moon is the camera’s arch.

  3. Excellent! I thought it would not work without tracking pattern between turntable and item to scan. Maybe the rough plywood provided enough of a pattern to track.

  4. Why wouldn't you just rotate the object in the center and keep the camera, background, and lighting stationary?

  5. Hi, Eric, I did one of this for my dental office projects. I put 4300k and 6k lights beside and above the center of that to improvel the lighting and put a green cardboard instead of white behind it. Nice job!

  6. Add a few stepper motors, remote shutter release, and a microcontroller and the whole process could be pretty well automated. I am so amazed/enthused about the advances in photogrammetry and desktop machining in the last 10-15 years. Wonderful times we live in.

  7. Heya Eric. Thanks so much for trying this out. I think my ideas are pretty brilliant too, but to see a great industrial designer prototype one has simply made my day. Cheers!

  8. Great result for prototype..
    maybe make simple fixed light mount on boom would take it 1 more step..

  9. What degree arch did you use for this? Perhaps some measurements or a drawing of the design so others can try it?

  10. What I found to work best for me is to rotate the object itself, the final texture comes out uniformly lit on the entire surface, this way the object can be accurately lit in the 3d engine. Just a simple turntable used by cake shops, and the camera set on a tripod at different heights

  11. angelo3d

    1 segundo atrás

    Hello, sir. Here in Brazil everithing is very expensive. This solution you presented is 100% efficient. It owes nothing to commercial and so expensive devices. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

  12. Excellent video.
    I'm going to try the software out. So far my experience has been fair at best with other programs, but I'm sure my iPhone XR is the biggest issue. I'll report back.

  13. Eric, did you use the standard version of the software or the professional?
    And did you check to see how well it captured the true size of the object it scanned (the standard version you have to manually play with scaling to get it close).

  14. This is great! Glad I have seen this. Now you can make free high res 3D scans for almost free instead of buying an expensive 3D scanner. This result is the same as an expensive 3D scanner of 3000 dollar or more. One question. Do you think it is possible to scan larger objects of about 1 meter, or 1.5 m ?

  15. WOW! this is the first time I've seen a hobby photogrammetry rig actually produce good results. I am so building this and buying metashape.

  16. Hi…

    what is the pros and cons rotating the object than the camera…?

    i used low cost photogrammetry but, i'm use fix camera and rotate the object.

  17. I had a similar idea independently a couple months ago. Absolutely awesome to see your execution. Definitely need to make my way through the rest of your library, loving it so far 😉

  18. Idea was good! But maybe it was easier to put a rotating table and fix the camera so the object is just there, at the same height within 0.5 mm difference.
    With that long arm holding the camera, there's a momentum that moves a little up and a little down the camera.
    Another tip, you could use a remote app to shoot photos avoiding any micro-movements.
    And… last but not least, adding a flat egg timer under the table, could automate the rotation so the only action would be press the "Shoot" button on the smartphone :)))
    Btw nice video!

  19. thank you for building this, it proves what i thought and i'll have to make myself a rig like that for doing 3d scans

  20. 2:56 Be careful of Hair getting caught up in blades, etc…

    Seen this happen to someone using a drill, not very nice

  21. Where is the light? what is the light? Can't see any shadows around the bottle… is there a trick to this sorcery?

  22. This is exactly what I was considering when talking to a friend. Good to see that the lazy Susan bearing is a viable option. I’ll definitely be looking at this as a point of reference for my own, unsure on scale yet but with an adjustable arm for the camera this will be incredible! Thanks for sharing!!!

  23. 🤔 The added back-drop would help to mitigate the noise induced to the images by stray reflection. Plus there would be a lot less to edit out from the scan.
    Nice build though 😊

  24. Nice work. I had my design idea since two years. The arc which is carrying the camera is near quarter of a circle which goes from -15 degree to 80. But instead the rig is rotating around the subject . The subject sets over a turn table and turns around its axis which is much easier . And the subjects sets inside a lighting box which diffuses the light. Which is necessary for quality photogrammetry.k

  25. Best to move the turntable and not the camera. This contraption looks unwieldy. Also a waste of time and money because I can get a better quality faster with just a turntable and a tripod.

  26. Why not move the object with the plate instead of moving the whole thing around ? Just a small movement of the lazy keep light 100% the same

  27. wouldn't it have been easier to just rotate the bottle instead. you could even have used a motor to turn it slowly. The light would stay constant and so would the background…?

  28. What if you add a chessboard background instead of a white one, so the machine can compare it and make some calculations? Does the software allows you to manually or through script, telling what is the position/angle of the picture? So if you are using a stepmotor, you can tell the software exactly how many degrees you turn in each picture. What about placing some line lasers and taking the pictures in a isometric view, so you can calculate the distance from the red curvy line projected on the surface to the turning axis (like in a solid of revolution, where you have the line of each degree that will spin).?

  29. I make a hires video while going around the object.
    Then extract frames from every 0.5 sec of my video then use those to make the photogrammetry.
    Works fast and great 🙂

  30. I built this rig only the model moves, I have three set positions on the camera support arc. Yes I choose ten degrees as well. Love the device , much better, easier. Great video,

  31. so my spin of your wonderful ideas is the following …….. DSLR camera that is remotely triggered. Camera is attached to a fixed robot arm that moves to appropriate angles . Object rotates on turntable controlled by stepper motor. Diffused LED lighting rotates with the object. System is shielded from stray light ( darkroom ? )

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